The gateway to the Pantanal, FUERTE OLIMPO is an attractive, if somewhat run-down old town, giving the impression of an abandoned military outpost. The old Spanish fort that gives the town its name dates from 1537 and looks out over the Río Paraguay, here a conglomeration of marshy islands penetrated by a meandering series of windy channels.
The town’s other major architectural treasure is the three-towered Catedral Morada de Dios – though it is most impressive from the outside. Despite the colonial charms of the town itself the two main reasons for visiting are eco-tourism and fishing. Boats can be hired with a driver for 300,000G per half-day, but petrol is in short supply and it is a good idea to bring your own and pay a reduced fee. Capybara and caiman abound along the river channels, whilst howler monkeys sing each morning from the forested cerros around the town. Game fisherman will be tempted by the opportunity to snare monster pacu and surubí, but restrictions exist on how many fish you are allowed to take home.
Even more remote than Fuerte Olimpo, BAHÍA NEGRA is a small town located almost at the junction of the Ríos Paraguay and Negro. It is Paraguay’s last population centre before the triple-frontier with Bolivia and Brazil some 20km further north. The only reason to head up here is for eco-tourism, and animals abound – everything from giant anteaters and giant otters to tapir and jaguar, while huge numbers of wading birds gather along the waterways.
Three kilometres south of town, the Puerto Diana indigenous community sells authentic arts and crafts for reasonable rates. The cacique will be able to arrange for you to witness a traditional dance ceremony (450,000G) if you give advance notice, the performance consisting of twenty people in tribal dress and lasting a total of two hours. Boat trips organised locally cost 200,000G per half-day but you must bring your own petrol – they are a must if you want to see wildlife. There are no restaurants or petrol stations in Bahía Negra so you should take all your supplies with you.
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