Paraguay’s most northerly national park, Río Negro consists of 160 sq km of pristine Pantanal wetland across the river from neighbouring Bolivia and an hour or so boat ride west of Bahía Negra. This is a paradise for water-birds with huge flocks of herons, storks, ducks and cormorants scattering in the wake of your boat, and the spectacle alone is worth the trip. The riverbanks here are populated with large numbers of caiman and capybara and, if you’re lucky, you might catch a glimpse of the elusive marsh deer.
Boat trips into the park are arranged in Bahía Negra through Fundación Hombre y Naturaleza , and these will take you past the tres fronteras area where Brazil, Bolivia and Paraguay meet, separated by rivers. The park takes its name from the Río Negro, so-called because of its high tannin and silt load which gives the water the appearance of cold tea.
The area where the dark waters of the Río Negro meet the clear-watered Río Paraguay creates a spectacular optical effect. Expensive accommodation is available inside the park at Fortín Patría but they will only accept groups and you need to book ahead, www.fortin patrialodge.com T021/446189). Alternatively, Asunción-based Birdlife International partner Guyra Paraguay offer no-frills accommodation at their Tres Gigantes Lodge with packages including transport from Asunción or Bahía Negra (T021/223567; $80 per person not including transport).
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