The Paraguayan Pantanal, on the other side of the Río Paraguay from its Brazilian neighbour, is rarely visited by tourists. Getting there can be expensive, accommodation is thin on the ground and it can be reached only by boat or aeroplane for more than half of the year. On the plus side it lacks the commercialism of the Brazilian Pantanal, the wildlife is, if anything, more abundant, and the chances of having your experience adversely affected by hordes of other tourists are nil. The two main entry points into the Pantanal are the small towns of Fuerte Olimpo and Bahía Negra, but to get the most out of your visit it is worth taking a private tour.
Access to the Paraguayan Pantanal is troublesome, with no reliable public transport to speak of.
By air It is possible to fly to both Fuerte Olimpo (2hr) and Bahía Negra (3hr) with pilot Juan Carlos Zavala (T0971/201540). Four passengers fit in the plane and it costs US$300 per hour.
By car Road access is only via the Mennonite colonies of the Central Chaco and is a two-day trip from Asunción – do not attempt the trip without a 4WD vehicle, and if there is any hint of rain there is a real risk of being stranded for several days. Avoid making the journey during the wettest time of year (Sept–April) unless you have to, and do not attempt it alone. The last chance to buy petrol is at Loma Plata – you should make sure that you take enough with you to get where you want to go and back again.
By ferry A ferry leaves Concepción once a week on Wedfor Bahía Negra, stopping at Fuerte Olimpo. The entire trip takes three days and it is an uncomfortable but extremely picturesque ride.
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